How to clean and restore sneakers.
A material-by-material breakdown for keeping your pairs looking close to deadstock, plus a few restoration tricks we've picked up from years of handling consignment shoes.
Before you start: what you need
Most sneaker cleaning doesn't require specialty products. Here's the basic kit that covers 90% of situations:
- A soft-bristle brush (an old toothbrush works fine for detail work)
- A medium-bristle shoe brush for soles and midsoles
- Mild soap or dish detergent (nothing with bleach)
- Microfibre cloths (at least two)
- A small bowl of lukewarm water
- Suede eraser and brass suede brush (if you own suede pairs)
- White vinegar (for stubborn stains on white leather)
Dedicated sneaker cleaning solutions from brands like Reshoevn8r and Jason Markk work well but are not strictly necessary. A drop of dish soap in warm water handles the majority of jobs.
Leather sneakers (Jordan 1s, Air Force 1s, Dunks)
Leather is the most forgiving material to clean, which is part of why leather sneakers hold their resale value so well. Remove the laces first and set them aside. Dip your soft brush in soapy water, shake off the excess, and work in small circular motions across the upper. Don't soak the leather. You want the brush damp, not dripping.
For scuffs on white leather (the toe box on Air Force 1s is the usual suspect), a melamine sponge (Magic Eraser) works surprisingly well. Use it dry, with light pressure. Too much force and you'll strip the finish. After cleaning, wipe the entire shoe down with a damp microfibre cloth and let it air dry away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Stuffing newspaper or shoe trees inside helps them hold shape while drying.
Once dry, a thin coat of leather conditioner keeps the material supple and prevents cracking. This is especially important for older pairs that have been sitting in storage.
Suede and nubuck (Yeezy 500s, New Balance 990 series, SB Dunks)
Suede is a different game. Water is not your friend here. Start by using a suede eraser (a crepe rubber block) on dry stains and scuffs. Rub gently in one direction. For embedded dirt, a brass-bristle suede brush lifts the nap and removes particles without damaging the surface.
If the suede is heavily soiled, you can use a suede-specific cleaner applied with a soft cloth, but test it on a hidden area first. Some cleaners darken the material. After cleaning, brush the nap back up with the brass brush, always working in the same direction. A suede protector spray applied before wearing helps prevent future stains, but it needs to be reapplied every few wears.
One mistake we see constantly: people trying to clean suede with soap and water. This almost always leaves water marks that are harder to remove than the original stain.
Mesh and knit (Ultraboost, Yeezy 350s, Flyknit)
Mesh and knit uppers are lightweight and breathable, but they absorb dirt and stains more readily than leather. Remove the insoles and laces. Mix a small amount of mild detergent with lukewarm water. Use a soft brush and work gently across the knit in straight strokes, not circles (circular motions can pill the knit fibres).
Rinse the brush frequently to avoid pushing dirty water back into the material. After cleaning, blot with a dry microfibre cloth and stuff the shoes with white paper towels (not newspaper, as the ink can transfer). Let them dry naturally. A fan pointed at them speeds things up, but keep them away from heaters and radiators. Direct heat warps the midsole glue.
For white knit uppers (Ultraboost Triple Whites, for example), a paste of baking soda and white vinegar applied to stains and left for 15 minutes before brushing can bring back a surprising amount of brightness.
Sole restoration
Yellowed outsoles are the most common reason consignment pairs get passed over. The soles on Jordan 1s, Air Maxes, and anything with an icy-translucent outsole will yellow over time from UV exposure and oxidation. There are two approaches:
Salon Care 40 method: Apply a thin layer of Salon Care 40 Volume Clear developer (a hair product, available at beauty supply stores) to the soles, wrap them in plastic cling film, and leave them in direct sunlight for 3-6 hours. The peroxide combined with UV light reverses the yellowing. Repeat over several days for heavily yellowed soles. This works well but takes patience.
Sole Bright / SoleShine: Dedicated sole restoration products that work on the same peroxide principle but are formulated for rubber. More expensive than the salon method but slightly more consistent in results.
For midsole cleaning (the white foam section), a melamine sponge handles most dirt and scuffing. For deeper stains, a cotton swab dipped in acetone works on small areas, but use it sparingly because acetone can strip paint on coloured midsoles.
Storage matters
How you store your pairs has as much impact on their condition as how you clean them. Keep deadstock and near-deadstock pairs in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. If you're keeping the original box, store it flat (not standing upright, which can warp the toe). Silica gel packets inside the box absorb moisture and slow down yellowing.
For pairs you wear regularly, invest in cedar shoe trees. They absorb moisture from the insole, maintain the shape of the upper, and keep the toe box from creasing prematurely. A $15 pair of shoe trees will extend the life of a $300 pair of sneakers by years.
Never store sneakers in plastic bags or sealed containers. Trapped moisture accelerates sole separation and yellowing. If you want to display pairs, acrylic drop-front boxes with ventilation holes are the move.